URUMQI, April 15 (Xinhua) -- While most Kazakh people in northwest China's Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region have bid farewell to their past nomadic life, Kinesgul Nurtanakin persists in keeping their ethnic memory alive with a craft she inherited from her family.
The 52-year-old Kazakh lady runs a company in the city of Yining, Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture. She has been dedicated to designing, making and promoting Kazakh yurts and clothing for 22 years.
Kazakh embroidery is commonly adopted on carpets and tapestries found inside Kazakh ethnic yurts and clothing as well as other ornaments and articles for daily use.
CHANGLAK: A SKYLIGHT FOR ETHNIC GLORY
A yurt is a "mobile home" for Kazakh nomads. But today, many would prefer to settle in brick-and-mortar apartments instead of clinging to their past lifestyle on the grasslands.
Kinesgul said "Changlak" refers to the skylight in a yurt's roof in the Kazakh language. It bears symbolic significance that indicates a Kazakh family's vicissitudes.
"Elders in the family usually pass 'Changlak' to the youngest family member. By accepting 'Changlak,' the child also inherits all the glory, property and culture in the family," Kinesgul said. "It's a solemn ceremony, and I want to protect the culture behind it."
What Kinesgul inherited from her family is embroidery artistry.
In her college years, she began collecting clothing patterns and Kazakh ethnic symbols, which later inspired her to enter the embroidery business.
In 1998, Kinesgul set up a workshop to make Kazakh yurts and clothing. They sold well both in China and overseas.
TASBULAK: KAZAKH EMBROIDERY FLOWING NON-STOP
Kinesgul's company name is "Tasbulak," which means spring water that flows out of rocks. "I hope Kazakh embroidery culture will keep flowing just like springs," she said.
When she started to establish her factory over two decades ago, she spent a long time traveling around Ili to visit elderly embroiderers. They were surprised to see a young lady who had such passion for traditional embroidery.
"An elderly lady from the county of Tekes was so excited that she even cried. She taught me everything she knew about embroidery," Kinesgul said. "I received many embroidery collections from them. Some even contacted me in their last days and entrusted me with their wishes to protect this cultural heritage."
In the exhibition area of Kinesgul's company hangs a tapestry, which was "saved" from a nomadic household. "They used the tapestry to keep dust and dirt away from the clay oven. I bought it from the family and soaked it in water for 10 days for the exquisite embroidery patterns to appear."
She believed it was made more than a century ago and regarded it as the treasure of her company.
The local government has been very supportive by creating favorable policies. Her business also increased the incomes of thousands of nomads.
Kinesgul has so far collected over 1,000 Kazakh ethnic patterns and trained hundreds of apprentices.
Some artisans from Kazakhstan visited her to exchange experiences of Kazakh embroidery inheritance and business.
SIRMAK: ETHNIC CULTURE FLOURISHING BRIGHTLY
"Sirmak" is felt carpeting for yurts. They are tailored into different sizes and with various patterns. Kinesgul's products are popular because customers believe that she respects tradition and seeks innovation.
As the main material used in a yurt, traditional felt is susceptible to humidity and worms and does not smell good.
To solve these problems, Kinesgul cooperated with an Inner Mongolian-based enterprise to develop a new type of felt, which has gained popularity among customers.
She employed four graduates majoring in art and design, whose main task was to bring in varied art elements into the products.
Her son Marhulan Jarkin is also by her side to help. Marhulan returned to Ili after graduating from college in Beijing.
He felt obliged to inherit the precious technique as his mother did.
With the knowledge he learned at school, Marhulan displayed the yurt samples online via digital modeling. Last year, he and his mother built a huge yurt that covered 350 square meters and stood 10.8 meters in height and 20 meters in diameter. It instantly became a local landmark.
"Our products will be presented with virtual reality technology, and we can also design items such as magnets and jewelry boxes," the son said, enthusiastic about their future plans.
"The business has been burgeoning with the help from my son," Kinesgul said.
"We want to bring traditions to life so that the yurt can tell its own story," she said.
